I like to avoid Hong Kong hotels, so I only do day trips to Fragrant Harbour, the city’s name translated to English. Quite a few day trips in past couple of weeks, in fact. Hanging with the Hong Kong strobists, or at the very cool PASM Workshop, or working away at my HK office: There’s always something to do and photos to be made.

The Man Mo Temple in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Island is a gem that I visit as often as I can. I stumbled across it when walking along Hollywood Road a few years back. It’s famous – being used in television and movies, as well as a popular religious facility for both police officer and gangsters. The ceiling of the temple is covered in coils of incense. Visitors are warned of the burning dangers over head. The temple is a dark and sweet-scented escape: Quiet in a hectic city.  If I’m at a loss as to what to do while on Hong Kong Island, I drop by.

Built in 1847, the temple is now owned by the Tung Wa Hospital Group. Tung Wa owns a few temples in Hong Kong – a strange acquisition. The temples prohibit photography, but the volume of tourists has made the posted signs a paper tiger. I once looking into getting a media pass – I think my China visa application was less complicated.

This photo was shot with a Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 lens on my now persnickety 40D.  I used AV mode set to f/1.4 at ISO 400. Canon’s 50mm lenses, the f/1.8 and f/1.4 are a bargain – quality images for those on a budget. I vow to use mine more. A vow of necessity actually – my walk-around lens, a 24-105 f/4L, is with the Canon doctors, being treated for an unknown ailment.

I once said I hate Hong Kong. My stance has softened since my early days. I still don’t like hotels in Hong Kong – way to expensive. Guest houses are a gamble. The major ones are unsavory: A mixed bag of backpackers, illegal immigrants, drug dealers, and prostitutes. I don’t have a problem with illegal immigrants, drug dealers or prostitutes.

I mentioned I was going shoot some pretty Asian models with the flickr Hong Kong Strobist group … and I did just that. The group of us, loaded down with light stands, flashes, various umbrellas, triggers and equipment met at the public dock in Kennedy Town, Hong Kong Island. The intention was to shoot on the docks, among dilapidated shelters, machinery, barrels and crates. Cool, no?

After starting to set-up – the security guards waded in. In mainland China security guards are everywhere, like a benign plague of locust, and they are generally ignored. In my city of Shenzhen I think there is one security guard for every 25 square-meters of real estate. Had we been shooting in Shenzhen, slipping a folded fifty would have dealt with the situation. Alas, Hong Kong security guards are a little more on the ball than their mainland brothers.

After a quick hike, totting equipment, props, models and make up artists, we arrived at a vacant lot / hillside drainage area. We set-up (again) and went to work in the fading light. The models were great. I learned some new techniques from some kick-ass shooters. Pretty Asian Model, Heidi (above) was a joy to work with. (If the photo would have had a backlight if would be killer) For more images – see my flickr stream.

To any photographers: Do you warm up before you shoot. Zack Arias talks about warming up in his One Light DVD series – getting in the groove before starting a session. I need to do something in this regard – my series with the first model truly sucks. Tips, anyone?

If you’re exploring the Strobist world I suggest meeting up with your local group. Good times.

To both meet some other shooters and network I attended an outing held by the Hong Kong Photography club a few weeks back. I’m not really a social person. The idea of hanging out all afternoon with expats I didn’t know wasn’t particularly enticing. They all had cameras, so we had something in common – which in more than I can say for many Shenzhen, China expats – who sit on bar stools and wax poetic about their past lives or lecture on what is wrong with China and how they would change it.  Sorry, I digress…

A gang of 32+ togs, loaded for bear, met at the Diamond Hill MTR station in Kowloon, Hong Kong. We then moved en masse to Nan Lian Garden, a park-like public garden across the street. I wonder what ran through the minds of the those that witnessed this Canon, Nikon and Leica migration? In a rare double appearance, both the blue sky and sun could be seen intermittently that afternoon, we must have been blessed. I think both have been on an extended holiday. We walked, the group slowly breaking up as people stopped to shoot different things. Everyone was in his or her own little world where the viewfnder is  crucible.

Flowers in the traditional Chinese garden outside the nunnery

Adjacent to Nan Lian Garden is the Chi Lin Nunnery. The temple complex is a massive, 33,000 square meters of buildings, gardens and shrines. The original Buddhist temple dates to the 1930, but the complex was rebuilt in the 1980 in the style of the Tang Dynasty. All the buildings are self supporting – no nails were used in construction. ‘

It didn’t have the same temple “vibe” I enjoy, but it was an enjoyable afternoon. Maybe my justified fear of expats is receding?

This Saturday I am off to meet with some peeps from the Hong Kong Strobist group. Nine photographers, three models, and a make-up artist, with the Hong Kong docks as a back drop. Wish me luck.

I didn’t really get into any trouble spending the Lantern Festival in Hong Kong earlier this week. My schedule was pretty busy. The former Police Married Quarters on Aberdeen Street have been opened to the public by the HULU Culture group and are being used for art and multimedia displays.

The two 7-story apartment blocks were opened in 1951 and housed thousands of police families until they were closed in 2005. The Hong Kong government wanted to sell the buildings, prime real estate on Hong Kong island, but community groups objected and efforts are being made to revitalize the aging buildings.

The public corridors on each floor separated the living quarters from the kitchens. This successful design was used later when Hong Kong expanded it’s public housing program.

I love old buildings. The former Police Married Quarters on Hollywood Road are old, but not super old. Still, it was a fun couple of hours. For once, I used the tripod I lug around everywhere. More photos to follow as I get my computer back up to snuff after my hard drive crash of last week.

Getting Ready: Morning on Victoria Harbor

I haven’t gone to Hong Kong very much since last July. Five trips in seven months: That won’t do. My Chinese resident permit will be ready tomorrow, I will be a resident of the Middle Kingdom (again) and be able to leave and return without worrying about visas and other government mumbo-jumbo.

Once upon a time I loathed Hong Kong. I would have proclaimed “I hate Hong Kong,” from the top of Victoria peak if I’d had the chance. But, we all mellow. I still believe Hong Kong is the place useless and bitter expats go to die, but I’ve managed to see past that.

I usually stay at  a rather small guesthouse. (If you haven’t heard of Chungking Mansions you can count yourself as lucky. ) Being an early riser I’m out on the streets while everyone else is still asleep, except for the Chungking Mansions drug dealers: They never sleep. Seeing things that few people get to see is pretty amazing. The sun rising over Victoria Harbour, birds in dawn flight, joggers, fishermen, and boat captains.

Craig Ferguson, a master photographer, recommends getting up early, one of the tips in his new photography ebook, Tips, Tricks and Pics. At $5, it’s a steal. I had the pleasure of checking out an almost complete version of the book and highly recommend it. What in the photography world can you buy for $5? This book is a must-have.

The captain above had his boat anchored beside the Kowloon Star Ferry Terminal. At 7:38 am he was polishing the glass of his rustic conveyance. I grabbed a couple of shots before he noticed me.

Sleep is over-rated.

I’m back in China. Okay, Hong Kong is China so I never really left. If that’s the case why is there that pesky border?

Three days in the city I love to hate. Some times I think that Hong Kong is the city where bitter expats go to die, like an elephant graveyard. It used to be the city that Brits who completely f*cked up fled to the start over. Now? Not so much.

The “visa run” is a trip many expats are well acquainted with. Luckily, Shenzhen, China (my home base) is right beside Hong Kong. It’s a very quick trip to one of the world’s financial centers (and nearest locale to have a Chinese visa issued).

My brief observations on Hong Kong:

1. It is beautiful.
2. It is crowded.
3. It is expensive.

I spent two nights in the Mirador Mansions, an ancient building full of guest houses, tailor shops, and laundry establishments. The bed stretched from wall to wall, with one square meter at the end of the room by the door for my bags. Think of a roomy casket and you’ll get the idea.

A snippet of conversation before I rented to room:

Guest House Manager: Are you sure you want this room? It is very small.

Stevo: How much is it.

Guest House Manager: 110 Hong Kong dollars a night (about $14 USD).

Stevo: Yes, I want.

The room had wireless and AC. I don’t need much more than that.  Note: For $110 HKD I could get a nearly palatial hotel room in China’s less traveled areas.

Three days: I shot photos. I bought a snazzy Benro tripod and ball head, and five pounds of protein powder. I visited my Hong Kong office.

Paddy in the BA/HK

And I met Paddy.

You’ve seen him around, the large green-headed expat Irishman. Paddy in the BA is no longer in the Buenos Aires. The infamous Irish rover and blogger now calls Hong Kong home. He and I sat at McLovin’s Irish Pub and had a pint of Guinness before he jetted off to a Pacific  island.  He’s a peach and I hope he eventually crosses the border to visit.

Three days away.Three days to chill and wander. It was pleasant. Except for:

1. Hong Kong is crowded.
2. Hong Kong is expensive.

Now it’s “go time.” A lot  to do in the space of three weeks. With a camera in my hand and a song in my heart it will all come out alright.